Corsica 2024

12th of July 2024 heading south.

When the kids came out of school and I finished my last meetings we jumped in the car and headed south. We found a hotel in Troyes near the Foret D’ Orient. Whilst driving in the dark we spotted three species of owls: Barn, Tawny and Long-eared.

 

The days after were spent driving further south, with the regular sightings of Black Kites on the way, and visiting family members. With one living in Provence, singing Scops Owls and Nightjars were part of the summer evening atmosphere whilst watching the opening ceremony of the Olympics.

15th of July 2024 crossing Toulon > Ajaccio

We embarked from Toulon at 08.00 in the morning. Here, the water depth drops quickly and goes down to 2.000 metres. With such a steep decrease the currents push cold nutrient waters up and attract all kinds of wildlife.

 

These parts are known to host populations of cetaceans e.g. Striped, Common and Risso’s Dolphins. Also blackfish occur, like Orca and Long-finned Pilot Whales, and larger whales like Fin and Sperm Whale.

 

While the family entertained themselves with games on the deck I was scanning the surface. It started with some Coy’s and Yelkoun Shearwaters but went quiet afterwards. Only after a couple of hours did I see the first Striped Dolphins. 

 

The number increased up to one pod of 150 animals and then large black fins came out of the waves, a pod of at least three Orcas surfaced but quickly dove down underneath the ferry. At sea you can expect anything so here the surprise came with a Quail flying by the boat. Then for hours we sailed without any activity at sea, only with Corsica on the horizon did we spot a Fin Whale.

17th of July 2024 Bocca di Sobra

On the first day (16th) we stayed in our bungalow at the beach on the east side of the island. Some Bee-eaters, Little Egrets and Aoudouins Gulls flew by and again Scops Owls started calling from the pine trees at night.

 

On the 17th I got up early and headed towards the mountains to connect with the three lifers: Corsican Nuthatch, Corsican Finch and Marmora’s Warbler. I headed up the D69 towards the “Bocca di Sobra”. 

 

I arrived at sunrise and heard many Coal Tits, Crossbills, Treecreepers and Chaffinches when I got out of the car. Based on the trip reports I understood the Nuthatch could be tricky to find this time of the year. I focussed on the treetops but saw no movement, only a Mediterranean Flycatcher.

 

I walked up a small path behind a building into the forest but was only welcomed by some mosquitos. Back at the car I walked down the road where there was a bit more open space, hoping to see some movement. A bit further away I heard the call of a Corsican Nuthatch and 15 minutes later the bird came closer and I could observe it foraging high up in the treetops.

 

These nuthatches are surprisingly small compared to the European Nuthatch and, with their preference for the treetops, it doesn’t make it easy to see them. Still I managed to see the bird but couldn’t take any photos. 

 

With the nuthatch gone I headed down the road I came. When the habitat looked promising or when I noticed bird activity I stopped. This stop and check resulted in my first Corsican Finch and more Corsican Nuthatches too (again all high up in  the pines). At a cherry tree opposite a pig farm (being watched by some Ravens) many Mistle Thrushes and Jays were gorging on the berries, here also a male Cirl Bunting flew up and posed nicely on a dead branch.

 

When I drove down and passed the reservoir there was some maquis vegetation on the hillside, which is good habitat for sylvia warblers. Just as I stepped out of the car I heard the adjective song: a male Marmora’s Warbler was singing from the top of a bush. So, one morning out and a clean sweep of the targets.

 

Just before I arrived at the bungalow a juvenile Woodchat Shrike sat on a wire mobbed by a trio of Bee-eaters.

19th of July 2024 Endemics 2nd attempt.

The previous day was spent sightseeing at Bonifacio. The local Peregrine sped by chasing the local Rock/Domestic Doves. Scaring the shit out of the Jackdaws too.

 

This was the last day in this apartment and I wanted to give the Nuthatches and Finches another shot as I didn’t have decent photos. So I went back up the Sobra Pass to arrive just before sunrise.

 

This time I walked / climbed up to the top where a mixed flock (mainly juveniles) gave me good sight on Corsican Finches, Treecreepers, Chaffinches, Coal Tits, Mediterranean Flycatchers in the trees and Corsican Finches on the ground whilst Red Crossbills regularly flew by, perching on the top to fly off later with a pine cone.

 

With all this activity around I did get some photos and better sightings. One nuthatch chased a moth down to a fallen tree where I could observe it at eye-level, mastering the moth only to fly up again and eat it high up the tree.

 

Satisfied I drove down the pass to stop at streams, which only resulted in some Grey Wagtails sightings. At one gorge an impressive flock of about 100 Alpine Swifts were calling and swirling in the uprising wind.

21st of July A new site.

Our second stay was closer to Bastia at the Nature Reserve “Etang de Biguglia”. The next morning after our arrival I went out to check the area. It’s a bit frustrating that many roads are either blocked or private.

 

There is a good trail into the reserve but you need to start early as later it’s literally overrun by runners and dog walkers. 

 

The reedlands were buzzing with Zitting Cisticolas and some Reed Warblers, I did hear a Moustached Warbler but couldn't get my eyes on it.

 

Walking along the fence (again a track to a hide was closed off) my eye was caught by a round shape, a Hermann’s Tortoise was also agitated by the fencing habits of the Corsicans. I helped the creature to an opening so it would be out of the way of other people and dogs.

 

On the north end of the lagune a flock of Aoudions, Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls were resting on the poles of fishing nets, and a Slender-billed Gull flew by.

23rd of July more trial and error trails.

On the 22th we went up north for some snorkelling, and in the parking lot a couple of Moltoni Warblers were singing. Thijs (my oldest son) found a very cool Mediterranean Moray.

 

On the 23rd I used maps to scout for some interesting looking places and roads at the south end of the lagune but every one of them didn’t allow me to get to the destination I had in mind. Whilst driving around an Eleonora’s Falcon flew by over the fields where several Quails were singing.

 

A long bumpy road along a canal flushed two juvenile Purple Herons out of the reed to find another closed gate before the end. Utterly frustrated, I headed back to the apartment. My mood improved when I saw a flock of 24 Bee-eaters perched on an electric wire joined by a Hoopoe adding the bonanza of shapes and colours.

 

24th of July, last day last try

This is the last day on the island already and I wanted to see Marmora’s Warbler a bit better. So I tried the Don-Quichote style and drove up the D82 into the mountains in the morning to the village of Olmeta di Tuda.

I parked on the north east side where the slopes looked promising. A track went up and fortunately it was accessible, it even turned out to be an official “birding” track with signs of the birds breeding on Corsica.

 

While climbing up this goat track I flushed some Red-legged Partridges and soon found the first Marmora’s Warbler perched on top next to the track. More followed and I was able to get good photos. Also a couple of Dartford Warblers were present and when I got back to the village the area around it was packed with Sardinian Warblers. I was happy with the photos and all the lifers in the pocket.

25th of July, Bastia > Nice crossing.

After we left Bastia and saw Corsica fading on the horizon we positioned ourselves on the shaded deck of the ferry. It started with Scopoli’s Shearwaters and some feeding tuna.

 

Three rounded black dorsal fins on long dark bodies of Pilot Whales surfaced briefly and based on distribution would be Long-finned Pilot Whales. Two mid-sized whales surfaced, of which one later jumped out of the water after the ship passed, likely to have been Cuvier’s Beaked Whales, whilst three Glossy Ibises flew over.

 

What followed was spectacular and the shouting of our kids drew a mass of more spectators. In the next hour we counted at least 8 Fin Whales, 3 Sperm Whales (maybe even more), two schools of bow and wake riding Striped Dolphins and about 30 back-flipping Devil Rays. If you were looking out for the cetaceans you would miss the Hawksbill Sea Turtles closer to the ship or the flocks of flying squid sailing out of the ship's bow wave. A devil ray and Fin Whale dove underneath the ship and could be followed in the clear water.

If that wasn’t enough a Marlin jumped clear out of the water and two small parallel fins turned out to be of two Basking Sharks.

 

After this all time high a long low followed with only a jumping Devil Ray now and then. When we had Nice in sight a small group of Striped Dolphins came by with some babies. Suddenly a tail came out of the water and sank down vertically; another Sperm Whale, waving us out on this fantastic experience. 

26th of July En Voyage
We spent that last day of our holiday, before driving back to the Netherlands, again at Lancon Provence. As I was awake early I went out for a walk in the area. Besides many Sardinian Warblers and Wood Pigeons there was not much more to be seen. Some Turtle Doves flying by were nice additions and I got a good view of a Bonelli’s Warbler. Thijs found some interesting insects including a European Praying Mantis in the afternoon. The next day we took the 12 hour drive back home, going from 32 degrees and sun back into 12 degrees and rain.