Morocco 2025

Introduction:

After the road trip with my partner the previous year in the same region, I wanted to go back again. My plan this year actually was to go to Egypt but as Hans was very eager to go to Morocco (and Egypt getting a bit problematic with bringing in binoculars and equipment) the decision was made.

Flights: we flew from Amsterdam to Marrakech for about 250 euros pp, only we took the extra service for our photo equipment in the cabin storage, fast lane and extra seat space coming with it, ending with a ticket of 400 euros with Transavia.

Car: We rented a Dacia Duster via Sunny Cars for 10 days for 450 euros, high chassis is recommendable for the off road dirt track. 4x4 is not necessary and very high in rental costs. Only if you plan to go into the sand dunes of Merzouga do you need one, but hiring a guide with 4x4 for 1-2 days is a cheaper option then renting yourself.

Language: with English you will get around, especially with the younger generation. But if you know some French it will open doors (for tea with the family if you’re not careful). Some people did also speak a bit of German.

Money: cash, only petrol stations accept cards and some (modern) hotels do. Dirham is the local currency and it’s 10:1 ratio to the Euro. Best to withdraw a (larger) amount at the start to avoid bank surcharges with every withdrawal. We got around the 10 days with 600 euros (6000 Dirham) for meals, hotels, etc. Full 10-day trip cost us 1.000 euros pp (including flight, car rental, hotels and food).

People: In both trips I only came across very friendly people and were helpful. In the cities and on tourist sites people do see you as a source of income. Be wary but not suspicious. Don’t take photos of people without asking for permission. Respect their culture and traditions. We did have some police checkpoints were they only asked where we’re heading, glimpsed at our passport and bid a safe journey.

May 2024 versus March 2025

In May 2024 I almost saw all target species except Pale Crag Martin and Moroccan Wagtail. Both I was able to connect with in March 2025. March provided more European passerines and wintering birds boosting the trip list (173). 

In May more birds were on their breeding sites and there were more late spring arrivals e.g. Rufous-tailed Robin, Golden Oriole, Spotted and Pied Flycatcher, Savi’s and Icterine Warbler etc the trees were also in leaves and temperature was warmer (not too hot). Total of 156 species of birds.

Day one, 17/03/2025: Marrakech > Oukaimeden

We landed at 18.00 local time with the last sunlight. Some flocks of Spotless Starlings were heading to their roosts and some Little Swifts appeared to be nesting underneath the terminal.

It took us at least 90 minutes to get out, the queue for customs wasn’t that long but we read about 3h waiting times in some cases. Our car rental office (a truck with a computer in the back) at the parking was unlocked but no agent. After many phone calls he arrived with the excuse he was having dinner due to Ramadan. A check of the car (always take photos) and we were off to our accommodation Aurocher, Oukaimeden (1.5h drive).

Day two, 18/03/2025: Oukaimeden area

According to the host, the sun would be up over the hills at 08.00, so we had breakfast at 07.00 but as it got brighter we got nervous. Apparently he meant in the valley but by the time we arrived at Oukaimeden itself, the sun was already over the ridge.

We started at the ski lift station where in previous years I successfully photographed the Crimson-winged Finches, sadly there was no trace of them. An Atlas Horned Larked drew our attention. It was singing on the partly snow covered slope.

Previous year I wasn’t able to photograph this (sub)species and therefore it was one of the photo targets for this trip. We were lucky as it was one of the most abundant bird species at any slope, parking lot or road side we could find cooperative birds today.

Our search for the finches continued but Oukaimeden has more to offer. In the south side we found Rock Buntings, Moussier’s Redstart, Black Wheatears. Near the military station Thekla Larks, African Finches and African Tits were present. On the meadows a large flock of Red- and Yellow Billed Coughs were foraging. 

We got a good collection of nice photos but still no finches. Another group of English birdwatchers (also staying at the same accommodation) pulled over for a chat/update. They observed some finches at the vendors at the dam. One of the vendors sold walnuts and fed the birds some crumbs.

The Crimson-winged Finches, Atlas Horned Larks, and Rock Sparrows come down to feed. The stream below is a good spot for White-throated Dipper and Grey Wagtail so in between we looked for these species when the finches were away. While photographing a Moussier’s Redstart a Pale Crag Martin rushed by at eye level, sadly too fast to get a photo.

Because the clouds restricted the visibility and limited the photo possibilities we drove down for lunch at the accommodation and after we checked the site if the Tristam’s Warblers were already at the breed site. We did find three birds but remained skulky. We decided to try again the next morning hoping they would be more active/visible.

Along the road to Oukaimeden we saw many more species, e.g. Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin, Crossbill and calling Levaillant’s Woodpeckers. A stop at park Oukaimeden resulted in only some Coal Tits and Mistle Thrushes.

The clouds were disappearing so we headed up again to Oukaimeden. Sadly no more Crimson-winged Finches so we spend the time at the previously mentioned species. We got the tip that at 19.00 the Magreb Owl started to call, which it did. We could observe it flying overhead and even perched opposite in the low light of the street lights.

Day Three, 19/03/2025
Because it was Ramadan, the host of the accommodation was up early and willing to provide an early breakfast. This allowed us to be at the Tristam’s Warbler site at sunrise and continue our trip over the Atlas after.

The sun was not over the ridge so we scouted the area for suitable habitat. Typical Sylvia habitat with low holm oak, juniper bush and some (low) pine. Still the ideal site was the one visited the previous year and day. It was only when the sun was shining on the vegetation that the birds became more active. We spent 2 hours finally getting good shots of these fast moving birds.

Beside the Tristram’s Warbler there were only some Sardinian and Subalpine Warblers, Coal Tit, Chiffchaff and Eurasian Jay. 

In order to cross the High Atlas one needs to drive all the way down to the plains between Marrakech. The road crosses some interesting fields to observe Desert Grey Shrike, Bee-eaters and other migrants but then it’s just following the long and windy N9 over the mountains to Ouarzazate.

Without any stops this takes about 6 hours of driving, so it was in the later afternoon we arrived at Ouarzazate where we had a break to scan the lake. A flock of Collared Pratincoles was flying around and on the lake were some Great Cormorants and Great Crested Grebes. The shores didn’t look inviting nor did we see any other birds so decided to proceed to our accommodation near Boumalne Dades.

After the check-in we recovered a bit with Moroccan Tea. We then visited the Tagdalit dirt track and garbage dump in the afternoon. It was windy and the pair of Red-rumped Wheatears weren’t so cooperative nor were there any Temminck’s Larks present. The dump itself only produced some White-crowned Wheatears and migrants, including a pair of Little Ringed Plover.

Day four, 20/03/2025 wheatear bonanza

A well known and productive site is Imider and needs to be on the program. We set out early for a half hour drive. Last year it provided Pharaoh Owl, Maghreb Wheatear, Atlas Long-legged Buzzard and Lanner Falcon so we had high hopes.

In addition, recent sightings showed Thick-billed Larks had been seen, and we were not so motivated to search for those at the popular rubbish dump, therefore hoped to find.

We found a cooperative pair of Red-rumped Wheatears which Hans set his eye on whilst I kept looking for the Thick-billed Larks. The local bird guide tried to get some cash out of us but we turned him down as we wanted to be on our own.

The place is amazing and within 250 meters we had Northern, Maghreb, Desert, Red-rumped and Black-eared Wheatear! 

Finally we heard a lark singing above us and high in the sky was a Thick-billed Lark, it landed on the other side of the ridge where we could locate it again along with the female. They ran like little roadrunners among the vegetation. It was hard to get a clear shot when they ran from one to the other bush. Too bad only that they shortly flew off, but the light got harsh and we couldn’t find them again.

We then checked the gorge and found the nesting Pharaoh Owls, mom was watching the three chicks. While we walked back we walked into a Desert Finch and then noticed the male Pharaoh Owl above us. The falcon nest was abandoned. Time to go back to the accommodation for a late breakfast.

The plan for the afternoon was to try for the TBL again but there was a strong wind. We first checked a well to let the goats drink and provided a Bar-tailed Lark, it flew off before we could get the camera’s out.

We got back to the morning site but no birds to be found, only the owls were on the nest and out of the wind. The Maghreb Wheatear made a short appearance but after an hour searching for the TBL we gave up. We tried the Tagadilt Track but that too was without any result. Slightly depressed we spend the rest of the remaining light at the even more depressing rubbish dump to end the day in style.

Day five, 21/03/2025 lark road

It’s all quiet, nothing to be heard. The sun is about to rise when in the distance this call is to be heard.

On the horizon a bird flies up into the sky, makes a half loop and falls face down to the earth, at the last moment spreads it black-banded white wings and lands on the next singing post.

One of the coolest birds in the WP is at the Greater Hoopoe Lark with its wonderful display and appearance. This was one of our targets this morning, and like previous year only one singing male in this area. But one cooperative individual is enough.

Next in line is the punk-ass Temminck’s Lark. This “Horned Lark” has the longest crest feathers / horns of all. We are able to take some photos of singing males perched on the bush tops but they’re busier with finding food for the juveniles running around in the vegetation.

We constantly hear migrating flocks of Greater Short-toed Larks and soon find some on the ground that we can carefully approach. The Tekla Larks are also willing to pose to complete the quartet of larks this morning. Sadly no Thick-billed in the area nor at the dump.

We started the morning with the most impressive lark and ended with the least exotic, the Desert Lark.

During the morning we had some nice sightings of Cream-colored Coursers, a pair of Atlas Wheatears, a flock of Black-bellied Sandgrouse and a Crowned Sandgrouse passing by.

After the late breakfast we checked-out and headed to Ourzazate. This time I did manage to see the Moroccan Wagtail after dipping it the previous year. We had a 8h drive ahead to the Atlantic Coast with a planned stop half way, the goal was the first Lesser Moorhen for Morocco reported earlier. We arrived at the end of the afternoon and it was foraging in the open part of the river. We took some record shots first and then climbed down the bridge to get closer and at a lower angle. The Lesser Moorhen was foraging in front of us but a group of kids came to check us out and the bird vanished. 

We continued our way until I spotted a Greater Spotted Cuckoo foraging on the side of the road. We quickly turned the car and relocated the bird being chased by Maghreb Magpies. We could photograph the bird flying around constantly returning after being mobbed by the Magpies.

The sun was setting by the time we arrived near Agadir, luckily it wasn’t as crazy busy with the traffic but still you had to be careful driving in the dark with cars, scooters and bikes with no lights crossing your way. The thing we were happy with crossing our way was a Red-necked Nightjar flying in front of the car.

We arrived at the hotel at Sidi Ouassay and had one of the last pizza’s the restaurant was serving before going to bed early.

More to come....